Popular with high profile chefs out for a bite as well as university students who know a good, cheap meal when they see one, this big place is always busy. Bargain-basement decor matches bargain-basement prices for reliably fresh fare.

A dictionary-size menu is overwhelming–with Szechuan specialties, hot pots, vegan options, and loads of seafood, such as the sesame shrimp–battered with a light airy touch, the prawns are drizzled with sweet but not overpowering sauce.